I’m making this post several weeks in advance of my trip, but I’m confident I will not be retracting it at any point: Utah is beautiful.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Bryce Canyon, Utah | 1 Comment »
I’m making this post several weeks in advance of my trip, but I’m confident I will not be retracting it at any point: Utah is beautiful.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Bryce Canyon, Utah | 1 Comment »
When I started watching this video, I was immediately turned off by the ease and excessive popularity of the trail. Of course, I continued watching. I foresee coming home with a few nifty pictures of Angels Landing in Zion.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Angels Landing, Temple of Aeolus, Zion National Park | Leave a comment »
Over the past two days I’ve been fortunate enough to hike a part of the Presidential Range in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Leaving from Crawford Notch with two friends, we followed the Appalachian Trail (AT) to the summit of Mount Washington, cutting down Tuckerman’s Ravine Trail to Pinkham Notch.
The original plan was to use the AT for the entire trip, but after having done the 100 Mile Wilderness last year, the pain of a 15 mile day is well known to all of us. Even though we had an average trek of 11 miles on the first day, there was a lot of downhill, not to mention 90+ degree, humid, sunny weather ahead, and that adds up to a whole lot. There’s the toll on the knees, the toll on hydration, and the toll on the mind. We took our chance to shortcut down Tuckerman’s when the opportunity presented itself.
One of the most interesting aspects of this hike was the presence of hostels. Throughout the 100 Mile Wilderness the best accommodations were lean-to’s, so it was strange to see such significant buildings so far from anywhere. And I don’t mean relatively significant. They were actually good sized for the base of a mountain. They had all the amenities, including bunks, tables, showers, and a kitchen.
Of course, in the exact opposite spirit of the AT, it costs $100 to stay in one of these hostels. Per night. Per person. It’s bullshit.
But there were two hostels and the first was just a bit stop. We trudged on, passing Mount Monroe, among others, to arrive at the hostel at which we planned on staying, just 1.5 miles from the summit of Mount Washington. And by “planned on staying”, I mean “hoped would have some place to stay for real hikers”.
We walked the hostel, Lakes of the Clouds Hut, to find a mess hall filled with about 65 surely wealthy, non-hikers. Of course, they all had their $2000 worth of equipment they just bought earlier in the week, complete with retractable walking sticks (we had left our forest-born walking sticks outside, unafraid they would be swiped), but most of them likely walked the 1.5 miles from Mount Washington after taking the train that leads to the summit (for $45). And if they did it this past Sunday or Monday, they had perfect weather. I personally find this fitting since good weather is the antithesis of Mount Washington – sort of like these people are the antithesis of hikers.
(To be fair, I heard rumor of thru-hikers staying at the hut. Those people – who put me to shame – get a pass. They’re actually doing it. They mean it.)
But back to the hostel. We had heard tell of a so-called “dungeon” that cost a mere $10 per person. No meal, no amenities, but it was right there and out of the wind. The crew member helping us out didn’t make mention of it at first (instead recommending an out-of-the-way treeline hike that would have added miles to our at-the-time planned 15 mile hike the following day), but when prompted he offered it. It’s meant as an emergency refuse for hikers, but it’s really just for the winter when no one is likely to be at the hut. (It even has a raised door so all the snowfall won’t prevent a stranded hiker from gaining access.)
It was a little dank, but I actually enjoyed it better than some lean-to’s. The bunks (with our sleeping pads) were relatively comfortable, plus we weren’t sharing our room with 10 strangers like everyone else. It wasn’t a bad night.
I was pretty happy the next morning watching all the non-hikers gather their gear in preparation for what had to be the wettest fog I’ve ever experienced. The forecast called for awesome conditions (though humid) – but at lower elevations. On top of Mount Washington it was dense fog with 55mph winds, gusts up to 68mph. I’m glad they had to experience that – but I hope for some of the more genuine members of the group it wasn’t a matter of having to experience it, but rather getting to experience it.
I’ve hiked to the top of a sunny Mount Washington in the past (I refuse to pay the excessive price to drive or take the train to the top), but this was far, far better. The wind was intense. Visibility was measured in feet. We almost couldn’t find the summit building. It was difficult finding the trail head to Tuckerman’s. It was just right.
But in this whole excursion the best experience came at a much lower elevation, several thousand feet below. As we passed under-prepared after under-prepared hiking groups filled with children, one kid stopped for a moment. He looked up, at this point well below all the fog its non-raining wetness, and asked:
Were you in the clouds?
Yes, we answered.
…cool.
And it was genuine. Whether this was a one-time summer camp sort of trip for this kid or if he was jumping at any opportunity to climb a mountain, he meant what he said, he meant what he was doing. He was a real hiker.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Hiking, Hostel, Lakes of the Clouds Hut, Mount Washington, New Hampshire, Presidential Range, White Mountains | Leave a comment »
And for the next two days? I’ll take it.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Presidential Range | 1 Comment »
PZ has his Sunday Sacrilege post up today. It’s all about this idea of God as a father figure that brings us closer to the Universe, that makes us feel important.
Beyond just the family and tribe, though, this vision has been extended to the entire universe. There is a great Patriarch in the Sky, who is our leader and guide, responsible for making the grand strategic decisions about where our tribe will go, and is also watchfully making sure the unity of the tribe is not disrupted by wayward ideas from nonconformists. He has a central concern that we all share, that our people should thrive, and even if he is stern at times, it is because he cares so much that we succeed. And of course, he knows each one of us personally, just as the leader of tribe or clan in our pastoral days would have, and he can give us an approving stroke or a damning angry smiting, depending on whether we help or hinder the work of getting the flocks to the summer pasturage.
But scientists and atheists (I would be more specific and say anti-theists) shatter that faux relationship.
It (said shattering) makes that whole business of breaking the news about Santa Claus look like small potatoes. Reality is harsh, man.
But it is reality. We’ve done the paternity tests, we’ve traced back the genealogy, we’re doing all kinds of in-depth testing of the human species. We are apes and the descendants of apes, who were the descendants of rat-like primates, who were children of reptiles, who were the spawn of amphibians, who were the terrestrial progeny of fish, who came from worms, who were assembled from single-celled microorganisms, who were the products of chemistry. Your daddy was a film of chemical slime on a Hadean rock, and he didn’t care about you — he was only obeying the laws of thermodynamics.
This is true and only certain stances will deny it: the anti-science stance, the ignorance stance, the religion stance. And those often all go come as a single package deal.
But there’s good news – and it’s from someone that actually exists.
But here’s the wonderful revelation. If you’re a well-adjusted person, once you’ve discarded the unhealthy fictitious relationship with a phantasm, you can look around and notice all those other people who are likewise alone, and you’ll realize that we’re all alone together. And that means you aren’t alone at all — you’re among friends. That’s the next step in human progress, is getting away from the notion of minions living under a trail boss, and onwards to working as a cooperative community, with no gods and no masters, only autonomous agents free to think and act.
PZ wasn’t making any reference to hiking trails, much less the Appalachian Trail (AT), but just the word “trail” in the context of being alone triggered a whole slew of thoughts for me.
I was fortunate enough to hike the 100 Mile Wilderness last summer and I quickly came to discover an entirely new culture out on the trail. My poor knees only suffered for 8-9 days (while being partially supported by an infected ankle wound), but it was the toughest physical thing I’ve ever done in my life. Let me start with a description of the trail.
The 100 Mile Wilderness is considered the toughest part of the entire 2,174 mile AT. It runs from Abol Bridge just outside Baxter State Park (where the Northern Terminus of the trail is located on Katahdin) to the hiking town of Monson, all within Maine. It’s recommended that hikers bring 10 days worth of food as well as the rest of their supplies. This makes for a pretty heavy load, even for thru-hikers (those doing the whole trail from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Katahdin, or vice versa). My own pack came in around 45lbs.
I started and finished with two friends. I’m not sure if I could have done it alone. We started at Abol (where some kind gentleman smashed my window and stole my CD’s – because CD’s were worth so much in 2009) and ended at Monson. The rationale for going north-to-south was that the northern end is less mountainous than the southern end and it would an easier start since our packs would be heaviest in the beginning. It didn’t really matter. It was still horribly difficult, horribly painful.
While I was with friends, I only recall my own world on a lot the trail. There’s a lot of silent suffering. And that’s part of the pull of the AT, I think, part of its charm. But at the end of the day, no one is really alone. Hikers will gather at campsites, most of them with lean-to’s. And that’s where the culture of the hiker is solidified.
Everyone out on the trail understands through what everyone else is going. Everyone knows that particularly sharp joint pain. Everyone knows how distant a shower feels, how far away the idea of clean clothes really is. It’s its own culture.
I specifically recall one arduous, torturous day. It was already raining before we even woke up. We had forded rivers with our regular hiking boots on because it would be too painful to try and take them off to put on sandals. And really, we didn’t think we could get any more wet. We were wrong, but it was too late when we found that out. But we trudged on, probably near 15 miles. There was a lot of yelling and screaming, too. It wasn’t ever directed at each other – you need each other – but it was there. It was boiled pain and frustration come to the surface. But it had to end. We saw the sign – “150 feet to lean-to”. Such relief. Until, after spending all my time since walking in that river trying to keep my feet dry, I managed to slip into the swampy, flooded waters at the bottom of a hill. It just sort of just right, though. Now I was angry, frustrated, and in a way, alone.
My world was one of huge discomfort at that moment and it wasn’t anyone else’s. That is, until we climbed that final 150 feet. The lean-to was nearly filled. Five hikers had seemingly used every hanging nail available (so mice don’t get into everything). All their gear was spread out, just as they were, already in bed long before the sun had set. They didn’t look like they wanted to move. Sure, we had our tents, but no one wants to set those up at the end of a day like this, and in the rain. And then that one special thought, maybe the most important one on the trail, crossed all of their minds: There’s always room for one more.
It was only a six person lean-to, but we managed to squeeze in six men. And that’s the culture of the AT in a nutshell. Those 5 hikers saw the look on our faces when we came upon a filled lean-to at the end of the day. They knew our pain. They weren’t about to cast us aside. We weren’t alone.
I think a good life experience for everyone capable is to hike either the AT or some other significant trail system. It’s entirely different from the coldness one might find in Time’s Square, or even Portland, Maine. Of course, it isn’t free from that coldness – families will do simple overnight hikes, taking entire lean-to’s from the thru-hikers, offering them no relief in their 5-7 month journey. (I don’t know how the thru-hikers do it.) But for among those who are on the trail for any length of time, there’s a joining warmth.
The Appalachian Trail is an isolating beast, but those who discover it are ever alone.

Filed under: Atheism/Humanism, Hiking | Tagged: 100-Mile Wilderness, Abol Bridge, Appalachian Trail, AT, Maine, Monson | 2 Comments »
I went for a hike yesterday in what I suspect is the most beautiful part of Maine.
Following along the Pleasant River, Gulf Hagas is a spectacular stretch of protected land just south of Baxter State Park. Just about every turn seems to have a viewpoint, each one more dramatic than the last. In fact, I couldn’t help by stop for a little extra than normal at each one, adding quite a bit of time to what was purported to be a 5-6 hour hike (which I would normally do in 4-5).
At Screw Auger Falls (that ever so common name for waterfalls throughout Maine, it seems), the water was dark, surely cold, but appeared just deep enough to justify a jump. So naturally I had to do it. And yes, once within the darkness, it was excruciatingly frigid. It got no better the second time in.
This is one of those places where I literally said “wow” out loud so many times, I’m actually hesitant to post about it. It’s popular enough as it is (part of the Appalachian Trail goes through it) and I like my trails deserted, but it’s hard to resist talking about it, if even only as an excuse to post pictures.


Yes, that is me. Yes, I am clothed.
I unfortunately didn’t bring my own camera, so my choice of what to upload is limited. However, another person did bring her camera, so more pictures will be forthcoming (and without me in them).
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Grand Canyon of Maine, Grand Canyon of the East, Gulf Hagas, Hiking, Pleasant River, Slate gorge | Leave a comment »
A day hiked is never a day wasted.
Filed under: Hiking, Misc | Tagged: Hiking, Thought of the day | Leave a comment »
I hiked a few trails near Camden, Maine today. It was one of those foggy, cloudy days where the heaviness of the air can be felt on every inch of skin. To cap things off, the final hour of hiking consisted of a heavy drenching. While I would obviously rather hike in 70 degree, perfectly sunny weather, there’s always something I love about being in the rain on the side of a mountain. It feels like their can’t be a moment in the day I’m wasting.
One of the trails I was on came out at Maiden’s Cliff, which rises about 800 feet above sea level. In 1864, 12 year old Elenora French chased her wind blown hat as it swept towards the edge. Not realizing how close the danger really was, she lost her footing and fell to her death in front of Megunticook Lake. Now there is a cross in memorial of her short life.
Seeing the irony in taking a photo of me as I reflectively read Elenora’s memorial plaque next to a giant white cross, a friend snapped this:

I like it.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Camden, Camden Hills, Elenora French, Hiking, Maiden's Cliff, Maine, Memorial | 3 Comments »
It doesn’t even seem like a word if you keep saying it. Solution? Better break out the eye candy. (Also, my plane ticket and tour are completely paid off. I just need a little bit more gear and I’m prepared. Oh. And I get to go to Utah in the weeks before hand, so expect some Zion and Bryce eye candy down the road.)



Filed under: Administrative, Atheism/Humanism, Hiking | Tagged: Africa, Glacier, Global Warming, Highest Peak, Hiking, Kilimanjaro, Photography, Pictures, Summit | 1 Comment »
Here’s a video-picture montage a friend of mine made. Yours truly is in some of the photos.
Filed under: Hiking | Tagged: Hiking, Maine | 4 Comments »